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Sunday, November 30, 2008

Psittacosis: The Parrot Fever

When you are dealing with Psittacosis, you are dealing with a sickness that is found in birds but can be transmitted to other animals, as well as to people. It is a disease that is caused by an organism called Chlamydophila psittaci. Psittacosis can be infectious to humans, birds, cows, cats, sheep, goats and pigs. It will also infect all different kinds of birds.

 

Most of the time, birds get it from one another by inhaling dust from the droppings or from the feathers of the birds that have been infected. When a lot of birds have been together, like in a pet shop or boarding place, it might happen more often.

 

There are several symptoms that might show that your bird has Psittacosis, even though there aren't any for sure symptoms. If your bird doesn't eat or drink, loses weight, is depressed or listless, or has watery green droppings as well as discharge from anywhere, or dies suddenly, it might have Psittacosis. Even if a bird doesn't show symptoms, it can still be a carrier, and can pass it to its offspring.

 

If you think your bird has Psittacosis, you have to be sure that it goes to a vet, even though diagnosis is tough. Treatment should begin right away ,and is going to be done by a vet and should only be done by an avian vet. You should also get any birds that have been exposed to your sick bird treated as well.

 

There are several things that you can do to make sure that you prevent any of your birds from getting Psittacosis. You should always take your new pet birds to the vet, and should isolate them from other birds for at least 6 weeks to make sure that nothing develops. You should also only get your pet birds from a supplier that has a good reputation.

 

It is possible for humans to get Psittacosis. If you are sick or elderly, or have an immunosuppressing condition, you are gong to be at high risk. If you have lots of exposure to birds, and have developed something that seems like a prolonged flue, you are going to want to talk to your doctor about your exposure to birds and see if this could be the cause of your ailment.

 

Remember as well that good hygiene plays a role. Be sure to wash your hands carefully after handing your pet bird or anything that comes into contact with your pet bird. 

Birds and Metal Poisoning

When you own a pet bird, you know that there are always going to be things that you should look out for, and things that you have to be careful of so that your bird doesn't get sick or injured. You always want to be on the lookout for things that will help your bird be happy and healthy, and you never want to be in a situation where you have done anything careless that is going to let your pet bird become sick. Birds and metal poisoning is something that you want to keep in mind when you own pet birds.

 

Many times, people keep their pet birds in cages that are designed just for them. This is the best way to do this, as the manufacturers of the birdcages are going to be sure to use proper things in the birdcage – things that aren't going to make your bird sick. You should always keep your pet birds in a cage that is designed for them. First of all, they are going to be less likely to get out, and second of all, you know that the cage has been built and designed to hold pet birds, and therefore is not going to be harmful in any way.

 

If you keep your pet bird somewhere other than a bird cage, or if you let your pet bird roam in your house without supervising them, you always run the risk of having your bird be poisoned by something. Like any other animal, a bird will explore his surroundings, and might be tempted to nibble on the bars of a cage, or on something in your home. If there are metals that are unhealthy for birds, you might find yourself with a very sick bird.

 

The best way to avoid metal poisoning in your pet bird is to make sure that you are keeping your bird either in a cage that is designed for him, or that you have gone to the trouble to research your cage's materials to be sure that they aren't going to harm your bird. Also, you have to be sure to supervise your pet bird very much when he is out of the cage to be sure that he doesn't get into anything he shouldn't. A good way to do this is to bird proof the room that he will be in, and to make sure that nothing in that room is going to harm him. Then, while he is out, be sure to keep a good eye on him so he doesn't get into trouble.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Do You Want to Remove Pet Stains From Your Hardwood Floors?

By Christopher W Smith

A majority of American families have welcomed pets into their hearts and homes. No matter how cherished a pet may be, it still needs to be trained to use a litter box or go outside when the urge prompts. Regardless of how well trained your pet is, there will still be occasional mishaps. If you're in the habit of leaving your pet home alone for long hours, or if you have an older pet, the inevitable is bound to happen.

For people who have hardwood floors, this can present a real problem. You've probably learned that if your pet has an accident, you're going to end up with a stain on your hardwood floor that is going to be difficult to get rid of. Relax! Pet stains can be removed from hardwood floors. By getting a few special tools together, you'll be able to remove a fresh stain quite easily. Older stains will take a little more work, but they, too, can be removed with a little effort. Before beginning, always remember to test your stain removal method on an out of sight piece of flooring to make sure you won't cause any damage.

Most pets have the instinct to mark out their territory within your home. This is especially true if you have old pet stains which your new pet will be able to smell. Your new pet will want to leave his mark on top of any old pet stains to establish that the territory now belongs to him. Any time you remove a pet stain, be it fresh or old, you need to get rid of all the odors that will attract your current pet's territorial instincts.

Removing Fresh Pet Stains

Since fresh pet stains will not have soaked into the floor yet, they are easy to remove. To take care of pet stains when they first happen, you'll want to keep the following items on hand: paper towels, white vinegar, warm water, and a product that contains bacteria and enzymes which will eliminate both the stain and the odor from the area. When shopping for this product, read the label carefully to determine if it was formulated for use on a hardwood floor. Some of the stronger products on the market will actually damage your floor, so make sure you avoid them.

When a pet stain happens, grab your materials (you may want to keep them all assembled in a small pail), and use the following method to eradicate the stain and odor:

* Use a paper towel to blot away any standing urine.
* Scrub the stain with white vinegar which will help eliminate both stain and odor.
* Use the warm water to rinse the stained area.
* Once again, blot up any liquid using paper towels. You want to dry the area quickly and thoroughly so that you don't incur any water damage. If you leave water standing for too long, you may begin to see some warping.
* Use the stain and odor removal product you purchased to treat the area. By doing so you'll lessen the chances that your pet will find the area attractive again in the future.

Eradicating Old Pet Stains

If you have stains that have been around long enough to have soaked down into the wood and sub-flooring, you will need to sand down into the stain in order to determine how deep the damage went. If you find that the stain is gone after just a bit of sanding, you will probably be able to refinish just that area. If the damage is too deep and too extensive, however, you'll have to take out that section of the flooring and then possibly need to refinish the entire floor.

Stains that have been left for long periods of time will have left odors that eventually permeated the wood and the sub-flooring. You can often treat these areas with commercial bleach, but if you do that, protect your skin with rubber gloves, and make sure you know what you're doing. If it comes down to the fact that you're going to have to sand and resurface the whole floor, use a shellac-based primer which will give you the results you're looking for.

Do you want to find out more about how to install laminate floors? Refinishing Hardwood also has information on how to clean hardwood floors.

Canidae Dog Food - A Premium Pet Food Brand

By Robert Playoll

Canidae dog food is one of the most highly respected brands of premium dog food in the marketplace. Many dog owners try Canidae and find no reason to ever switch to another dog food brand. Known for outstanding quality in preparation, coupled with their unmatched human grade nutrition, Canidae has been widely considered the first and last stop for many dog owners.

All natural, for all life stages and made with human grade ingredients, Canidae pet foods is committed to providing you and your dogs the highest standard of excellence for dog food quality and satisfaction. All of the Canidae dog foods are made with quality in every single bag. They use no corn, wheat, soy, grain fraction or fillers in their formulas. Additionally, each variety is naturally preserved.

The various formulas they provide covers the full spectrum of dog development and varied taste buds. Two such solutions I'll highlight are the All Life Stages formula and the Platinum formula.

The All life stages formula is a perfect, all around dog food. As the name implies, it's a solution for dogs of all ages, from a small puppy to adult. It is an excellent solution to provide your dog the best nutrition available in a balanced, all natural diet. It is made with four human grade meats...chicken, turkey, lamb and fish. Other features include the use of ten skin & coat conditioners, antioxidant vitamins, and balanced omega 6 & 3 fatty acids. With excellent palatability, holistic and herbal benefits, and made for all stages of development, This formula is sure to please your canine.

The other product I will highlight is the Canidae Platinum. It is formulated for senior and overweight dogs that need a lower fat and calories alternative. Made with chicken, turkey, lamb,herring and brown rice, this formula is full of nutrients to make your senior dog thrive. This recipe is also great for senior dogs that have joint problems, because they have added glucosamine and chondroitin, which helps promote better joint health.

Complete, natural solutions. Canidae formulas of dog food provide all the necessary nutrition and natural supplements your dog requires to help grow and lead a healthy life.

Dog Food provides detailed information on adult dog food, puppy food, senior dog food, organic dog food and more. Including brands such as Canidae.

Sunday, November 9, 2008

Cat Care - 6 Tips From Cutting Edge Cat Care

By Aaron Michaels

Owning a cat can be one of the most rewarding experiences in life... If your cat is well-behaved! Training your cat does not have to be difficult. You can get started training your feline friend to behave the way you want her to with these 6 tips:

1. Punishment is pointless.

First and foremost, keep in mind that your cat is not a dog. Sounds obvious, but punishing your cat will only result in frustration - for both of you. Positive reinforcement is much more effective than negative attention. So the next time you catch your cat doing exactly what you want him to do, heap on the praise!

2. Toys are tops.

Have you ever heard that "curiosity killed the cat"? When your cat is in trouble, he is probably not being "bad," he is just bored. Always have a good variety on kitty toys to give something fun to do. Rotating toys will help, too. That way you can give your cat new toys to play with each week, without breaking the bank.

3. Water works.

Keep a small spray bottle filled with water on hand. If you ever do catch your cat red-handed, you can stop him right in his tracks. The next time your little pal uses your furniture as a scratching post, startle him by squirting him with the bottle.

4. Blow him back.

When your cat is just in your face, smothering you with more attention than you can handle at the moment, blow right in his face. It's unpleasant, but not harmful, and he will more than likely back off and give you some space.

5. The eagle eye is essential.

Your curious kitty will find plenty to occupy himself when he can see all the activity outdoors. Birds and squirrels will keep him interested (and out of trouble) for hours.

6. Quality time is key.

Lavishing attention on your cat every day will go a long way toward building the bond that will result in a lasting, happy relationship with your pet.

With these 6 tips, you are well on your way to a happy life with your feline friend. For more tips on cat training, visit Cutting Edge Cat Care now. You can also get a free mini-course on cat care at http://www.cuttingedgecatcare.com - see you there!

Do Electronic Flea Collars Work?

The age of technology has introduced technological answers to many of our oldest and toughest problems. Fleas are no exception. Electronic flea collars may be the newest weapon in the war on pet fleas. For hundreds of years man and his best friend have been battling these tiny, unwelcome pests - and in many cases, losing. It is important that we consider new technology like the electronic dog collar to help us in this battle, because pets are a necessity that can never be replaced by technology.

In the mid-1900s, time release pesticide combined with plastic collars to make the modern day flea collar. Although they did a good job of reducing bites and irritation on infested pets, the collars were not successful in keeping stopping flea infestations in particularly high risk areas such as kennels or homes with many pets. Another problem was that not all pet owners were comfortable with the collars since the chemicals sometimes caused skin irritation or dermatitis. Since then, alternatives have been introduces, such as topical flea control treatment and electronic flea collars.

It is important to consult your pet's veterinarian before choosing a flea control method for him/her. Although some pet owners may wish to use electronic flea collars, most vets believe that using topically applied flea medication is the most effective way to avoid, control and eliminate flea infestations. Pet owners typically treat their pets regularly with some sort of chemical growth regulator, such as methoprene, that prevents flea larva from developing into adults. Advantage, Frontline and the Program are some of the most popular and widely prescribed brands of this type of medicine.

Pet owners' concerns with traditional topical chemical flea treatments are valid. Often, the active ingredients that harm fleas could potentially harm pets. An alternative to is consider using an electronic pest control collar. Different collars control flea infestation in different ways; some use high pitched or ultrasonic sound to repel all insects and spiders, others produce an electromagnetic around the pet that repels bugs and insects. A newer, cutting edge version of the electronic flea collar uses ionic air cleaning.

Before you buy one of these electronic flea collars, surely you want to know whether or not it will really keep fleas and pests off your pets. Many months of research has determined that these electronic flea collars may not always perform as well as they should. Despite the fact that for some pet owners they seem to be a safer alternative to traditional chemical flea collars, most electronic flea collar manufactures have not provided any proof that their products perform as claimed. Advertisements for electronic flea collars tend to use testimonials rather than scientific research as their main selling point. For some pet owners, it may be beneficial to give the electronic flea collars a test drive, but for money the facts just don't add up.

Candis Reade is an accomplished niche website developer and author.
To learn more about electronic flea collars, please visit My Flea Collars for current articles and discussions.

Saturday, November 8, 2008

Dog Tear Stain - Is Tear Staining Caused by Your Dog's Breeding

By Susan Helton

Does your dog have tear stain problems?

Tear stains or eye stain is the reddish brown stain that you may see around your dog's eyes and sometimes down the sides of their face.

There are many potential factors that cause tear staining that can include:

Genetics - Your dog may have a facial bone structure or predominantly large eyes that bring about excess tearing. The anatomy of many dog breeds is purely more conducive to excess tearing. It is just a fact of life for many breeds and according to my vet it is nothing to be alarmed about. 

A few of the dog breeds with a genetic tendency to tear stain include: Maltese, Maltipoo, Poodle, Shih Tzu, Bulldog, American Eskimo, Bichon Frise, Terrier, Westie, Chihuahua, Havanese, Lhasa Apso and Coton de Tulear.

Enivronmental factors -If your dog is exposed to lots of dust or things that cause allergic reactions it can cause your dog to have more tears.  It is important for you to keep your dog clean with frequent baths so that shedding hair, dust and other debris do not make their way into your dog's eyes and cause irritation.

Emotional factors - Dogs that are stress free and live in a happy loving home tend to tear less than an anxious, lonely or badly treated pet. Because the causes of tearing are so varied it cannot be claimed clearly that there is a singular connection between your dog's emotional state and tear staining - but you can be certain that a happy dog with less stress will be in better health overall.

The reddish brown stains from tear pigments and draining were difficult for me to eliminate from my dog's faces and believe me, I tried so many different "cures" for my Maltese that did not work. It was very frustrating!

I finally found a simple method that is so easy to use and my dog's faces are now clean and healthy and stain free! Their faces not only look better, my doggies feel better without the miserable staining and facial irritation they fought for so long.

Learn about the best tear stain remover I have found that is SUPER EASY to use and really works at http://www.MalteseEyeStains.com/

Horse Groundwork

By David McMahon

Whether your horse is green or the best horse in the world, groundwork is an essential part of horse training-especially with natural horsemanship. The reasons are simple. A horse has survival instincts that can make horse handling downright dangerous. If feeling threatened, a horse may kick or try to flee. If a horse is running scared he might get in blackout mode and you might get knocked down or run over if you happen to be in his way. If you're in the saddle out on the trail, your horse could run you into a tree or worse. A woman who knew my mom several years back got run into a tree by her horse and was killed instantly. So its important for us to train our horses to be calm, relaxed, and responsive. We do this with groundwork.

But that isn't the whole story. Suppose your horse is calm and relaxed. Are you aware of the way your horse is sizing you up and seeing what he can get away with? We call this bad horse behavior but what this is really about is setting up leadership and respect. If your horse doesn't respect you then she is going to be exhibiting bad behavior-crowding you, walking all over you, or being "stubborn" and refusing to do what you ask. A horse that is stubborn can be just as dangerous as one that's flighty. Turns out the same groundwork exercises we can use to train a flighty horse also work with one that's stubborn. In fact they are an essential ingredient of horse training with any horse-even one that's well behaved.

In horse training, groundwork is the essential first step in building a solid foundation with your horse. Groundwork teaches a horse good manners, sets boundaries that make horse handling safe, and builds trust, respect, and leadership between you and your horse. If you want your horse to be your best griend, groundwork is where you need to start.

In his new 60 minute video, Mastering Basic Groundwork, Eric Bravo works with two green horses and demonstrates several key groundwork exercises you can start using with your own horses. He begins the video with a round-pen session. Many people lunge their horse to get out excess energy, but Eric does it to get inside the mind of the horse and in an insightful demonstration he shows how to use the round-pen to bond with your horse.

Establish some boundaries
Next he works on several exercises to teach the horse to be light and responsive and to respect spatial boundaries. This is a very important aspect of horse ownership because of safety. All too often I see people letting their horses nibble at their pockets or come right in so their nose is in your face. People think its cute, but its actually dangerous. I've had my own experience with this-one night I was out walking my horse Goose and I took a break to pet him. I was a bit too close. He lowered his head to the ground and then came up quickly-and his nose clocked me right in the jaw! Horse's are big animals so I was in a lot of pain and was seeing stars! And this was the result of no bad intentions on the part of Goose. I came out OK, but I could have been seriously injured. This shows how important it is to put space between you and your horse. You choose when to go in and pet him, its not up to the horse because its a safety issue.

Get and Keep the Attention of Your Horse
After covering basic leading, Eric demonstrates how to move and position the horse on the ground. These exercises benefit you and your horse in several ways. First, it helps establish your leadership which is important on several levels. You don't want your horse thinking for himself on the trail-that is how my moms friend ended up being run into a tree. You want your horse to look to you for leadership and guidance. These exercises help you build this kind of relationship while on the ground, where its much safer. What you do with these exercises will carry over directly to riding.

Also, it helps build a communications channel between you and your horse. You will get so in tune with him that riding will become easy and light. In one groundbreaking technique Eric Bravo calls "Magic Eyes", Eric shows you a three-step exercise that will get and keep the attention of your horse. This also carries over to riding-do you want your horse to be looking off in the distance for threats real or imagined-or do you want him trusting your guidance? Magic Eyes is one of the best groundwork horse training exercises you can use to build a solid relationship with your horse.

In two very interesting sections of the video, Eric teaches you how to divide a horse up into three "zones" that can be used to ask the horse to move in different ways. Then he introduces an exercise called "one-step forward, one-step back" that gives you more precise control over your horse than you thought was possible.

Speaking From Experience
I have to admit that my pre-Eric Bravo horsemanship was embarrassingly lacking. I've learned more and accomplished more with my horses by applying the groundwork exercises in this video than I ever dreamed was possible. Something I really like about the video is that there is a clip where Eric shows a student handling her horse, so you can see where she needs to work on her handling of horses, see Eric offer corrections, and then apply that to your own horse training. The training techniques presented in this video are simple to understand and use and can be used with any style of riding-Western or English. It costs just $34.95 and I have to say as one horse person to another that I highly recommend this video.

Friday, November 7, 2008

Determining the Right Dosage of Frontline Plus For Small Dogs

By Paul Kramer

Providing the right dosage of Frontline Plus for small dog is crucial in not only determining that the flea and tick infestation is treated, but also to help ensure that your pet's health is not put at greater risk. Frontline Plus has been one of the highly recommended products that are proven to be fast and effective in the treatment and control of some common pests that infest our pet dogs.

Once you detect some common flea and tick infestation symptoms on your house pet, such as excessive itching and scratching, you have to see the veterinarian right away. You cannot just ignore fleas and ticks on your pet, especially when your pets roam freely around your house. Aside from the apparent risk it poses on the health of your pet animals, there is the danger posed to health of humans who might be able to get the infection as well.

Frontline Plus contains the ingredient fipronil, as well as the insect growth regulator methoprene that effectively targets all kinds of fleas during any stage of their life cycle. The fact that this treatment targets fleas at different stages of their life cycle makes this a really practical flea control treatment since this will rapidly eliminate the existing fleas and prevent it from producing more. As soon as the fipronil gets to the oil of the skin and hair follicles, they spread to reach all fleas that stay even in those seemingly inaccessible areas of the animal's body.

Another great thing about Frontline Plus is that it is packaged according to the dog's weight. Therefore, you have packages for either small or large dogs; it is specified even more with corresponding packages for each weight category. This is done not only for convenience but helps ensure that you are giving your pet the right dosage.

Frontline Plus is a very effective treatment, and yet it is safe enough for puppies up to 8 weeks old. By using a dropper-like dispenser, you must apply it onto parts of the dog's body that are inaccessible and it is completely waterproof so your dog can freely swim and bathe without the need to reapply the treatment onto your dog.

The frequency of application of this medication depends largely on the size of the dog and what specific treatment you are aiming for. For example, when it is a small dog and you want to prevent or control fleas, you must provide monthly treatment application for up to 3 months. But if you want to get maximum results and keep the fleas and ticks from re-infesting your pet dogs, you can opt for a year-round continuous treatment.

For dogs that weigh 11 to 22 lbs, you can get the 3 Pack Frontline Plus, which is the orange box for about $25 on most online shops. Meanwhile, the 6 Pack Frontline Plus for small dogs will cost around $48. The approved dosage for small dogs per application will be around 0.67 mL, as mandated by the USA Version, EPA Reg. No 65331-5.

After only 24 hours since first application, the treatment starts to spread throughout the body and impeding further growth and development of fleas. A consultation with your veterinarian will also assist in monitoring the condition of your pet dog. Now that you know the right dosage of Frontline Plus for small dogs, you can rest assured of a reliable solution to your pet's flea and tick infestation.

To learn more on Determining the Right Dosage of Frontline Plus for Small Dogs and about the different types of pet meds for your dogs, cats, horse, etc., and how to get discount and cheap pet medications, make sure to visit http://www.callpetmeds.com where you will find everything on getting quality yet affordable pet medications as well as tips on how to take care of your pets like the experts.

How To Trim A Dog's Nails

By Jason Beachy

As a dog owner you will eventually need to decide how you're going to keep his nails clipped. Neglecting to clip a dog's nails can result in broken nails, ingrown nails and nail bed infections. Trying to walk with ingrown or long nails is very painful and causes a pronounced limp. If you have never clipped a dog's nails and are unsure of how to do it, take your dog into the vet or groomer and watch them do it.

If you can, start when your pet is a puppy. At this stage you can probably clip their nails by yourself. However if you have a full grown dog that isn't used to getting his nails clipped you may need some extra help.

When to trim the nails:

You should have the nails trimmed every three to four weeks. However you may find it easier to only clip a little off at a time and do it every week. If you hear clicking nails it's time to clip them, they need to just touch the floor but not click. Some dogs wear their nails down naturally, taking your dog over concrete on walks will help wear his nails down naturally as well.

The tools:

Nail trimmers. Either a guillotine type trimmer or scissors type. Or you can use a Dremel tool - more on that later.

Styptic pen. If you cut too much of the nail off you'll clip the blood vessel inside the nail and cause it too bleed. The styptic pen is applied to the nail for a few minutes to stop the bleeding. You can find these at Walmart or your vet's office. Some handy household items you can use as substitutes are flour, baking soda or cornstarch.

Nail file. Use this to smooth the nails after clipping them.

For a large dog, have him lie down either on his side or on his stomach. If he's unruly and moves a lot having him lie on his stomach will let you lean over him and hold him down as you clip the nails. Take the paw and hold it firmly in your hands, you'll need to be able to hold the toe you're clipping as well. Clip the nails from the bottom up at almost a 90 degree angle. If the nail is white you can see the pink quick, or blood vessel inside the nail. Take only one or two small clips off if the nail is black. Regularly clipping off small amounts will move the quick back.

If you look at the edge of the nail you'll see the top part is black and the bottom part is whitish. As you get closer to the quick the top part will start becoming whitish gray. When you see this it's time to stop and start filing the nails. Don't forget to trim the dew claws. This nail grows from the side of the foot on the inside.

Using a dremel or electric filing tool:

The Dremel tool is a quick way to file and smooth a dog's nails. People who use this tool are quick to point out that it does not crack or pinch the nail like clippers are prone to. Once you are comfortable using a tool like the Dremel to trim nails you'll find that is a quick and easy way to get nicely trimmed nails.

The learning curve may be a bit steeper and some dogs do not like the noise. Others however react more to clippers so you'll just need to see what your dog is more comfortable with. Remember that long hair can get caught in the Dremel rotator get yanked out quite painfully. The head, legs and tail should be restrained if the dog is nervous and wants to move around.

When using the dremel or an electronic file it should be swiped over the nail to trim them. Never apply pressure with the dremel, let the friction of the band grind the nail down. The grinding causes the nail to get hot very quickly, so only touch the nail for about 3 seconds at a time. After you have made one swipe on each nail on one foot, go to another foot or wait until the nail is no longer hot. There are several other websites with more in depth instructions on how to use a dremel tool, if you're serious about using it, it would be well worth your time to look for more detailed instructions.

For more tips and instructions on how to care for your dog and other pet related information please visit my author profile. You can also go to my personal website for my Japanese chins at http://www.ultimatechinpuppies.com

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Pet Nail Grinders Are Safest For Trimming Dog Nails

We all love our pets so much. But, nobody likes to have them scratch up our furniture and floors. Nor do we like to have them tear holes in upholstery or pillows. And it's very annoying dog or cat nails snag our clothing or hosiery, not to mention painful when they accidentally scratch us. But, all that aside, nail care is also absolutely essential for the comfort and health of our pets!

If you have ever done it yourself, you know that trimming their nails is scary, unpleasant, and can often be painful for your pet if you cut into the quick of the nail. If you've ever cut your own finger or toenails too short, you have had a small glimpse into what this pain is like - but cutting into the quick of your pet's nails is more painful. And other than to yelp in pain or run under the bed, your dog or cat can't give you very good feedback on how you are doing as the work is in progress. You can't blame them for running away when you approach them with clippers. You can almost hear them thinking, "Oh no, not the dreaded nail clippers again," as they run for that one place in the room where it's impossible to reach them.

But rather than cutting your pet's nails, there is another way. You can begin grinding dog nails or cat nails using a rotary pet nail grinder. PediPaws and PetiCure is are two of such pet nail grinders available that are used to gently sand down a cat or dog's nails instead of using a traditional clippers. These grinders have a filing wheel that doesn't cut the nail, just files it down.

Not only are grinders that are made for this purpose better than clippers, but they is much better solution than a regular rotary tool like the Dremel. Because they is specifically designed for this grooming task, these grinders have a well-designed pet nail guard and d not use a really high speed motor. The nail guard is a plastic case that surrounds the filing wheel, with a hole just big enough for your pet's nail to fit through. Then the tool applies its precision filing wheel to gently remove thin layers of nail and leave the paws of your pet touchably soft and your home safe from scratches

In summary, these rotary pet nail grinders are fast and easy to use and are very gentle on your pet's nails. They can be used on dogs, cats and pets of all ages and sizes. They leave no mess and are painless. In seconds your pet's claws sharp and jagged edges are gone. Pet nail grinders are the fastest and easiest way to keep your pet nails trim, rounded and smooth without the mess.

Written by Alexander Gray. Pet nail care is a scary and difficult task. But an inexpensive tool like PediPaws makes it safe and easy. To learn about PediPaws and special bonus offers, please visit grinding dog nails

http://grindingdognails.com

Don't Be Fooled - Labrador Retrievers Do Shed!

But don't let it stop you from getting a cute little black, chocolate or yellow lab puppy. Putting up with the little fur bunnies that crop up around the house is only a minor nuisance. A nuisance that is far outweighed by the breed's natural intelligence, boundless energy, and loving nature. Labs are great dogs. You just need to know how to prevent the shedding problem at the source and groom your Labrador with the right product.

Most people think that since the Labrador Retriever is a short-haired dog, it doesn't shed. I know I did when I brought my black lab puppy home. Shedding wasn't a big deal when she was a puppy, but when she became and 80 lb. dog, I would vacuum up tons of hair every week. Technically, Labradors are known as moderate shedders. Not as bad as a German Shepherd or Alaskan Malamute, but they DO shed.

Labradors have what is called a double coat. Outside, they have a water-repellant coat called a guard coat that keeps them dry while they are in water retrieving ducks. Then they have a soft, downy undercoat that helps keep them warm in cold waters. They generally shed their coats twice a year. So there's lots of opportunity for fur to accumulate on your carpets, floors, bedspreads, couches and black dress pants.

You might think giving them a bath is the answer, but it isn't. Labs do not need to be bathed frequently. If your Labrador is dusty, or muddy, just rinse them off with plain water and rub them down with a towel or chamois leather. Or, if you prefer, wait until they are dry and brush the dirt off them. Shampooing them too often is not a great idea because it strips the natural oils from their coat. These oils are the unique elements that help repel dirt and water.

To help keep the shedding under control, you need to brush your lab at least once a week. And brush her outside. You could buy a stiff bristle brush or a hand glove, but, I suggest you do yourself a favor and invest in a Furminator. Check out the FURminator deShedding Tool. The Furminator is a de-shedding tool that reduces shedding up to 90 percent by removing the loose, dead undercoat without damaging the dog's topcoat. It works much better than a brush or comb by not only removing tons of hair, but also bringing out your Labrador's natural oils for a healthy skin and shiny topcoat. (To check out a really cool demo of this tool in action, go to http://www.furminator.com).

Remember, if you catch the loose fur before your Labrador sheds it all over your new oriental area rug, you and your Lab will be a lot happier. Groom your dog frequently!

For more tips and tricks on living with and raising a Labrador Retriever, visit us at Labrador Dogs. And don't forget to check out the FURminator deShedding Tool.

Cherie Stirewalt is a proud owner of two Labrador Retrievers and write about her experiences on her site Labrador Dogs. Sign up for the FREE 7 day training course on training your dog.