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Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Helping Your Cat Survive a Move

By D J Bromley
 
Moving home can be a stressful time for all the family including the cat. Animals, especially cats seem to have a sixth sense when things are about to change and generally they do not like it. Also as you all make preparations you may not have as much time to spend with your cat as normal and this too can be unsettling.

Ideally you need to plan ahead of time to prepare your cat for the move. Firstly, even if your cat does not normally wear a collar you should put one on so that they get used to it. Once you move your cat really does need a collar and tag for the first few months in the new neighborhood. On the same note you should get a tag with your new address already on it ready for day one at your new home.

At this stage you will also need to consider how you are going to transport your cat to its new home. It will probably travel with you in your car but however you travel you will need a secure pet carrier. Some cats are perfectly happy in a carrier whilst others will complain continually. However, this is better than losing your pet during the move.

Curiosity is said to have killed the cat and many cats find boxes and wrapping irresistible. At best you may spend hours searching for a cat that has curled up and gone to sleep in a packing case or at worst got trapped in a nailed down chest. Ideally it is best to confine your cat to a single room away from all the activity. This is particularly true on the day of the move itself when you are going to have removal men shifting heaving items around the place. The last thing that you will need is a cat getting under everyone's feet. There is also a danger with the open doors and general upheaval that the cat may make a break for freedom to get away from the turmoil.

Once at your new address again it is best to put the cat in separate rooms whilst the furniture is moved in. Do make sure that you provide water, food and a litter tray as it may be in there for some time. Don't forget to make sure that you have also put tag with the new address on the cat's collar.

It is going to take some time for your cat to adapt to its new home and at first he may be resentful of the changes to its life. It is a good idea if you can to spare a little extra time with your cat during the period of re adjustment. Finally do not forget that you will need to find a new vet and get your animals records transferred from your previous vet.

It will take both you and your cat time to readjust to your new surroundings but with some care and consideration you will both adapt quickly. In no time at all your cat will be "King or Queen of the castle" and ruling its domain just as it did in the old home.

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Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=D_J_Bromley

Wednesday, February 26, 2014

Air Purifiers for Pet Shops, Kennels, Veterinary Facilities: Choose Carefully

By Rex Murphy

Most often, when a veterinarian, kennel or pet shop owner begins looking for an air cleaner, it's because of odor, allergies from the dander, or just a desire to make sure the air remains clean for customers and employees. Unfortunately, most people go looking for an air purifier that says 'pet air cleaner' or 'for pets'. And while there are a couple of units that do a decent job of removing dander, hair, and odors, they're usually inadequate for handling the amount of dander and odors produced by multiple pets in one indoor area--or it would take an army of these air cleaners, which can get expensive and take up too much floor space.

For pet shops, indoor kennels and veterinary offices, your best bet is to take a close look at the carbon filter in the air purifier. You will need the best, strongest activated carbon you can get (industrial strength is best) and lots of it-a minimum of 15-20 pounds and more if possible, to adequately remove the odors created by multiple cats, dogs and other animals. The reason for this is simple: most of the odors you're experiencing are of an organic nature or VOC (volatile organic chemical) and strongly activated carbon is good for removing these compounds. You need a large amount of carbon because the charcoal does become saturated, and more carbon means the filter remove and control those pet odors longer, with fewer filter changes, etc.

Next, make sure the air purifier has a true HEPA filter that removes 99% plus of all dander, dust & hair down to 0.3 microns, or 0.1 microns if possible. Some air cleaner manufacturers try to get away with 'HEPA-style' filters, which aren't as efficient. And don't buy an electronic air cleaner with electrostatic plates (no HEPA)-most of these require constant cleaning to keep them removing even 80% of particles, and that's not very efficient. The output of the unit and square footage coverage is also important-buying an air purifier with too low of an output isn't going to be able to remove the dust, dander & odors before it reaches your nose, which make it kind of a waste of time. You need a unit with at least a 400 CFM output or higher for an average 10 x 10 room or up to 10 x 20.

So far, we've been speaking mainly of portable air purifiers, and in many pet shop & kennel situations, a combination of several portable or floor air purifier and a unit attached to the HVAC system is needed-all with lots of high quality carbon and true HEPA filters. All those heavy duty urine and other odors are loaded with VOC's and really need the HVAC based air cleaner for overall removal and the portable units to remove them where customers and employees are standing, for the best, noticeably clean air. The portable units remove a good portion of the dust, dander, & odors quickly without having to wait for the A/C system to cycle it through its air filtration system.

Our best recommendations for very clean air in any pet shop, kennel or veterinary facility is an HVAC based industrial air cleaner from Electrocorp (such as the I-6500 AH 120) and one or more of either Electrocorp RSU floor units, Aller Air 5000 or 6000 Vocarb series, or Austin Healthmate Plus. We've had great success with this combination and by using both, you have the best HEPA filters, industrial strength carbon, and high output, not to mention 5-10 year warranties.

So if you're really looking to properly solve a pet odor & dander problem in a kennel, pet store, or veterinary office, stick with air purifiers that have large amounts of high quality carbon, true HEPA filters, and think industrial strength-in many cases, that's what's needed to handle large amounts of pet dander and odor.

Hi, I'm Rex Murphy, owner of Air Purifiers and Cleaners.com. I wrote this article to help pet shop, kennel, and boarding facility owners (and veterinarians) choose air filtration systems that will effectively remove high levels of dander, hair, & odors, and not waste valuable time and money on units that don't work well.

At our online store, we offer great deals on top-quality, affordable air purifiers with true, certified HEPA filters and carbon filters with the highest grade of activated charcoal available.

For more information on portable indoor air purifiers for pets, check out our Pet Air Purifier page.

For information on the Electrocorp I-6500 and RSU industrial air cleaner units mentioned in the article, visit our Fume, Smoke & Odor Filtration page.

We'll always give you the best deals on the best products. If you have any questions, give us a call toll-free at 1-800-701-2513.

Rex Murphy, Owner
Air Purifiers and Cleaners.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rex_Murphy

Friday, February 21, 2014

How To Rid Your Kitten Of Fleas

By Kitten Miller
 
So you found fleas on your tiny kitten, what should you do to get rid of them?

This will have a lot to do with how old your kitten is. It is not recommended to put any type of chemical based products on kittens under the age of six weeks old. Fleas on young kittens are extremely dangerous and can possibly kill your kitty.

If your kitty is still nursing, it can be assured that the flea infestation is on the mother cat and not the kitten, so be sure to treat the mother first.

There are few ways to remove the fleas safely without harming your kitten. You can bath him/her in liquid detergent such as Dawn with warm water, and then pick out the remaining fleas with a comb. This kills the fleas quickly and safely.

It might be easier to have 2 people doing this, one to hold the kitten while the other one massages and washes him/her. Be sure to wrap the kitty in a warm towel so he/she does not get cold.

Once the bath is over and the kitty is warmed up, you will then need to comb him/her out with a special flea comb. One trick also is to put a small amount of Vaseline jelly on comb; this will catch any remaining fleas.

These flea combs are not expensive and work great at getting the stray fleas off. The best time to use the comb is while the kittens' fur is still a bit damp, the fleas will find it hard to move in the damp fur and make it easier for you to catch any reaming ones.

Keep the Vaseline jelly close by, so when you see a flea, you just put some Vaseline on the flea making it so it can't jump away and you can remove it.

Another idea, is to have a warm cup of water close by, when you find the flea and remove it, put it in the water, fleas will drown. For best results, put a small amount of dish washing soap in the water.

If these methods are not working for your kitty, then the next step is to call and talk to your Vet for more suggestions and help.

Do remember also, that fleas and their eggs get everywhere, not just on your kitten. You might also need to use special products for ridding your home of fleas, such as sprays and bombs. Keep in mind also that these types of remedies can also affect other animals in your home as well as small children, so please read all information before using these.

Kitten specializing in helping you care for you kitten by giving advice and more. You will discover all about feeding your kitten to caring for them.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Kitten_Miller